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To learn more about the service, you can go to Szechuan Mountain House — 川山甲 is located at New York, NY 10003, 23 St Marks Pl. Zhi Min Zhu, who hails from Sichuan, is the culinary director of all the Szechuan Mountain House locations and is in charge of training all of the kitchen teams. Zhu has been working with Szechuan Mountain House since 2015 at the New York East Village location and has helped train the team at the new Rowland Heights location. The 5,000 square-foot space inside the Pearl Plaza was a feat years in the making.
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A bowl of free pickled vegetables and chiles greeted us as we sat down and examined the soft-opening menu, which was on a single double-sided page. We relived our Flushing experience by ordering the pork belly and cucumber ($10.95), and it was even better than the first time. The atmosphere at Mountain House is always lively and energetic, yet never overwhelming. The staff is attentive and friendly, making sure that every guest feels welcome and well taken care of.
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The former concentrates on mala tang, which are spicy mini hot pots, while the latter, configured as a hawker food court with carts, serves noodles, dumplings, pastries, and flatbread sandwiches called guokui, from the Sichuan street-food canon. That same year, Golden Shopping Mall food court opened in Flushing, resembling a funky Chinese bazaar. It’s famously where Xi’an Famous Foods got its start, but also the home of a Sichuan stall called Cheng Du Tian Fu (meaning something like Chengdu Heavenly Snacks). It concentrated on what might be termed more casual Sichuan eats, consisting of noodles and organ meats slicked with buckets of chile oil.
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From then to the present, there came to be many new Sichuan spots in Elmhurst; Little Neck, Queens; Midtown Manhattan; in the vicinity of Columbia and NYU; and many, many more in Sunset Park. But the largest concentration has been in Flushing, where the number of restaurants and stalls featuring the cuisine is edging up toward 30, by my count. Wu Liang Ye and Grand Sichuan both opened in the late ’90s, growing into mini-chains.
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The general onslaught of green chiles, hot red oil, and dried cayenne peppers has increased as well. The mapo ($10.95) was also totally up to snuff, semi-soft cubes in an earthy and oily broth with ground Sichuan peppercorns thrown on top, and not so much meat that it seized the spotlight from the curd. The meal ended agreeably with a small bowl of sweet mung bean soup, and we were once again out in the hurly burly of St Mark’s, marveling at the location. Other hard-to-find Sichuan dishes on the menu include Qian Jiang-style chicken giblets with pickled pepper and mala chicken stew. Szechuan Mountain House also features offal like pig intestine, tripe, beef tongue, kidney, chicken giblets, curdled blood, and fish maw. There is also a wide variety of vegetables, as well as the popular golden baked salted corn kernels with salted egg yolk, which tastes like creamy, buttery, elevated popcorn, and an expansive vegetarian menu.
藏不住的川味 TRADITIONAL CUISINE
Start your culinary journey with their mouth-watering appetizers, such as the crispy and succulent Peking Duck or the flavorful Shrimp Dumplings. For the main course, indulge in their signature dish, the Whole Sizzling Catfish, which is cooked to perfection and served with a delicious house-made sauce. Vegetarians will also delight in their wide variety of plant-based options, such as the Stir-Fried Tofu with Mushrooms and Bok Choy. Opening on an interior courtyard of a new shopping and hotel complex off Prince Street, Szechuan Mountain House was an instant hit among well-heeled dating couples out for an evening of innovative food in a romantic atmosphere. It grabbed the second-floor space formerly occupied by Grand Sichuan, itself an early advocate of the Sichuan peppercorns that have become ubiquitous in the neighborhood. It offers customized, individual portions, making it a solution for people who want to eat Sichuan food but don’t want to go with a group.
The space sports similar designs to the NYC locations, with koi ponds, cascading waterfalls, bamboo groves, Chinese flower art, calligraphy, lanterns, and ceramics. Málà Project is a great Chinese restaurant in the East Village that specializes in dry pot. Szechuan Mountain House is open for indoor dining, outdoor dining, and takeout - and they also have a location in the East Village in case that’s more convenient to you. No meal at Restaurant Mountain House Manhattan 川山甲 would be complete without trying one of their decadent desserts, such as the Mochi Ice Cream or the Chocolate Lava Cake.
The meat arrives still partly attached to the bone, to be removed and dramatically warmed over a flaming boat of oil by the diner. Still, even with increased visibility of the term Sichuan, the city’s propensity for the milder food of Cantonese cuisine seemed to prevail. These newcomers are not only serving food more fiery and flavor-packed, they’re ransacking recipe collections for dishes not previously seen here, and inventing new ones as well.
The broth was milky and sour, and heat was provided by several types of pickled chiles, which also lent tartness. In the middle of the bowl was a bright red cherry pepper, such as one might find in an Italian restaurant. The signature fried rice is ramified with mustard greens, while a dish of fried lotus roots and celery provides a spectacular snap that you can hear as diners around the table attack it, with a subtle flavor that you’ll dream of that evening. But perhaps nothing points to the mass-market appeal of a food more than the fast-casualization of a cuisine. Indeed, New York City recently got a crop of fast-casual joints, like Greenwich Village’s Peppercorn Kitchen and Chelsea’s Bang Chengdu Street Kitchen.
The food is plainly plated at a few dollars less than at its Sichuan cotenants, and the menu is heavy with offal, bullfrog, and rarely seen vegetables like celtuce. New York’s embrace of the cuisine has meant new restaurants across the price spectrum. Some of the city’s more ambitious Sichuan restaurants have upped the price expectations to $50 or so per person at a communal table, where a group is necessary to sample enough dishes. In those places, a less-expensive take on dishes like wontons in hot oil, mapo tofu, and dan dan noodles are available at prices that hover around $10. The floodgates have been opened where Sichuan peppercorns are concerned; where once you were lucky to get a little tingle on your tongue, Sichuan food these days mounts a Novocaine-like assault on your mouth, rendering a gulp of cold water useless.
Szechuan Mountain House offers popular Sichuan favorites like mapo tofu, twice-cooked pork, and kung pao shrimp, as well as classic Sichuan dishes seldom seen on menus in the U.S. Diners will be surprised by the Yibin-style ran noodles, also known as burning noodles, which are chewy, dry noodles that are flavorful, spicy, and salty from cardamine bean sprouts and roasted nut powder. The name “burning noodles” comes from the fact that traditional cooking methods add lard and chile oil to the noodles, which can be ignited without the use of water. At the same time, our old-guard Midtown establishments like Szechuan Gourmet, Café China, and Savour Sichuan have thrived, especially with the lunch crowd from nearby office buildings. In Flushing food courts, innumerable stalls popped up, peddling Sichuan fare at budget prices configured as noodle soups or faddish dry hot pots.
The food was indeed heavenly, and it prepared us for the spicy and offal-intensive Sichuan soon to arrive. Overall, Restaurant Mountain House Manhattan 川山甲 offers an unforgettable dining experience that is sure to leave you craving more. Whether you're in the mood for Asian cuisine, Western fare, or a fusion of both, this restaurant has something for everyone. The menu was thankfully crawling with offal; we ordered “strapping cattle throat with spicy red chile oil” ($10.95), which sounds like the work of some unhinged cowboy. It was delicious, though the strips of flayed bovine throat might as well have been squarish white noodles.
Vegetarians and vegans now have a dedicated Sichuan restaurant in Spicy Moon, a restaurant that opened just this year in the East Village. Dan dan noodles are made with a faux meat, and wontons in chile oil com filled with vegetables instead of pork. Some other classics include Sichuan dishes like mao xue wang, a stew of ox tripe, duck blood, beef tongue, chicken gizzard and other offal simmered in a peppercorn and chile-laced broth. The crispy free-range laziji chicken is stir-fried with dried chiles, dried Sichuan chile peppers, spicy bean paste, garlic, ginger, and topped with toasted sesame seeds and sliced spring onions.
The chef left for a new restaurant on Broadway at 95th Street, and not long after, the Upper West Side became the city’s first hotbed of the cuisine. For many years, the mouth-numbing cuisine of Sichuan didn’t quite penetrate New York’s dining scene. This was at least partly because they were declared illegal in the U.S. in the ’60s due to the erroneous belief that they carried disease. Situated in China’s southwest, the cuisine of the Sichuan province has at its most basic element the Sichuan peppercorn native to the region, to which have been added several permutations of chiles, producing a tingling symphony of hotness. Other ingredients include ginger, garlic, beans, peanuts, pork, chicken, freshwater fish, and the province’s bounty of vegetables. Also on the novel side are round shrimp fritters sided with sliced spuds, like pink ping pong balls with paddles; and planks of mung bean starch in chile oil and Sichuan peppercorns that wiggle and wobble in a glistening array.
Peanuts are introduced to the usual ox tongue and tripe in chile oil, adding crunch to the slipperiness. Zhu says that they take great care in the selection of peppercorns, all of which are grown in Sichuan. It is not out of the ordinary to use more than 20 different kinds of spices for a particular dish.
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